Mike quickly summarised changes in drapery trade in the 18th and 19th centuries discussing especially how Thomas Burberry fitted into the changing world of the trade. Drapery was initially sold by a variety of shopkeepers such as grocers and mercers but the clothing trade was transformed by technical innovation and the increasing scale of production and distribution spawning new forms of retailing by the end of the century such as chain stores, coops and department stores. Mike used a variety of examples including from his local north-west of England in Lancashire and Cumbria. Altogether the pegs were set up for Barry to hang his Burberry.  

Barry started with a map of Thomas Burberry’s footprint, which was mainly in Hampshire, but included neighbouring counties from Surrey to Dorset. He was born in Brockham, near Dorking, apprenticed in Horsham and moved with a legacy at the age of 21 to Basingstoke. His first business partner in the late 1850s was Ebenezer Gammon, a wonderfully Dickensian name. While Burberry would go on to great things, Gammon forged a modest living in a small draper’s shop in Godalming.  

Burberry’s choice of Basingstoke was a great decision, as it was a communications hub – road, rail (three different lines) and even canal – with links to London and the rest of the country. It was a growing town with a population that doubled between 1861 and 1891, attracting a variety of industries. Burberry also looked beyond Basingstoke, forming partnerships, especially with nonconformists like himself. His most important link, however, was with S & J Prestwich in the north-west of England, owners of Pandora Mill, Farnworth, near Bolton.  

In cooperation with Prestwich and others he invented a winning weatherproof fabric, Gabardine (Ed: not Gaberdine), which was triple-proofed - the raw material, the yarn and the weaving. It protected against wind, rain and snow and was designed to see off makers of other ‘scientific’ fabrics, such as Mackintosh, Aquascutum and others. Garbardine is said to have been inspired by the smocks of local shepherds, naturally ‘weatherproofed’ by contact with sheep, and also a conversation between Burberry and his doctor about the virtues of a breathable fabric.

Gabardine was manufactured in Farnworth from high-quality Egyptian cotton and used to make garments in factories in Basingstoke and nearby towns. Photographs show workshops crammed with sewing machines and young women, many of whom were pleased to be working on their own, rather than the almost inevitable alternative – a life in service.  Even so, following the foundation of the United Garment Workers’ Union in 1915, workers in Burberry’s Reading factory took strike action.

Imperial wars and extreme adventure at the turn of the century were gifts to Burberry. In the Second Boer War (1899-1902), the firm supplied the British Army with ‘Tielocken’ greatcoats, a precursor to the trench coat, 500,000 of which were sold to soldiers by the firm during the First World War. Polar explorers such as Nansen, Amundsen, Scott and Shackleton, who used Gabardine on their expeditions, were an advertising copywriter’s dream, as well as Alcock and Brown, who made the first transatlantic flight in 1919 in Burberry garments.

In peace-time Burberry focused on selling to the well-to do for their outdoor pursuits, such as ‘automobilism’, sailing, hunting, shooting, angling and suchlike. The company pursued a policy of aggressive marketing based on a strong brand awareness. Many of its iconic adverts included drawings of garments by Major George Roller, a serving soldier. Burberry eventually expanded into the metropolis and internationally, with outlets in Paris, New York, Buenos Aires and Montevideo. However, we heard from Barry that throughout his life he remained at heart a shopkeeper, stocking all manner of goods in his several shops and an emporium, all in Basingstoke, a forerunner of the department store.  

In his private life Burberry’s Strict Baptist faith drove him to establish a chapel in Basingstoke and, when he moved to nearby Hook, a mission hall in his garden. He apparently ‘never read novels’, was a teetotaller and a keen participant in the Temperance Movement, spearheading ventures such as the Old Angel Café in Basingstoke.  

The rich and varied story Barry told of Burberry’s life and work demonstrates aptly how local history can benefit from national and even international perspectives. The huge range of sources drawn upon was admirable - we could have easily stretched to two hours and we are excited to hear that a paper is being prepared for publication.  

To close the hour, we answered questions from the audience. We had a request for more information on the role of ‘governors’ in Burberry’s factories, those who supervised the workers. Listeners asked about the level of involvement Burberry had with his many partners and his links with the Scottish tweed industry.  We also had a question on the accessibility of Burberry’s archives.  One listener asked whether Burberry ever travelled to one of his oversees outlets. 

As well as full answers to some questions, Barry was keen to make clear the scope for further research. Perhaps he inspired some of you to find out more yourselves! 

At BALH we continue to bring local history into your homes. We warmly welcome you all to join our next Local History Hour on 24th June where we will be joined by Dr Helen Kemp and Anna-Lujz Gilbert. Anna will be presenting a national overview of early modern local libraries while Helen will be sharing a case study of Thomas Plume’s library in Maldon, Essex.

The views and opinions expressed in this blog are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of the British Association for Local History (BALH). Any content provided by our contributors is of their own opinion and is not intended to malign any individual, group, organisation, or entity.